KwaZulu-Natal- Shaka's Heaven on Earth

The remarkable diversity of attractions of theHluhluwe-Umfolozi Park, 175 km to the northeast
KwaZulu-Natal region is unsurpassed in Southof Durban. This combination of the game
Africa. It encompasses the splendid Drakensburgreserves of Hluhluwe and Umfolozi occupies 960
Mountains, sublime subtropical beaches, top ratedsq km. The park is mostly savannah grasslands
nature and game reserves, historic battlefields,and low acacia bush, but has a forested
rolling green hills of the Natal Midlands and the citymountainous section. You will see the famed "big
of Durban. The range of activities possible is afive"- lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhino. The
challenge even for those with the most eclecticpark is well known for its very successful black
of tastes: swimming, fishing, boating, scuba diving,and white rhino conservation efforts. Other animal
hiking, abseiling, game viewing, cultural andspecies to look out for include impala, blue
historical touring, whale and bird watching andwildebeest, waterbuck, zebra, nyala, kudu,
golfing.bushbuck, warthog, cheetah, hyena, jackal and
Warmer and more authentic South Africa thangiraffe. Birding is great and over 300 species are
the Cape Region, KwaZulu-Natal is the favouriteon record.
holiday destination for locals. The region liesYou can see game on guided walks, but for
between the Drakensberg Mountains andobvious reasons, an armed ranger must
Swaziland to the west; the Indian Ocean to theaccompany you. The less adventurous will have
east stretching from Port Edward in the south toan equally satisfying game viewing experience
the Mozambique border in the north.aboard a vehicle. Accommodation in the Umfolozi
As you transition from a subtropical to tropicalreserve is available at various bush camps at
environment, you encounter cool mountain ranges,Sontuli, Nselweni and Mndindini and at the
savannah grassland, coral reefs, indigenous coastalself-catering cottages and tented camp at Mpila.
forest and dunes, lakes and lagoons and papyrusAt Hluhluwe, the well-positioned Hilltop Camp
wetlands. Here 9 million people occupy 92,000 sqoffers accommodation ranging from a luxury
km of some the fairest and best-watered lands inlodge to self-catering chalets and rondavels. The
South Africa.dry season in the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi area falls
Little wonder that the Zulu, or "people of heaven"between May and August, while most off the
considered the area a heaven on earth indeed,rains fall within the rest of the year.
and were extremely jealous of late comers whoTo the northeast of KwaZulu Natal is the Greater
sought a share of it. And yet the Zulu peopleSt Lucia Wetland Park, which stretches along a
themselves had arrived only in the 16th century.280 km coastline from Cape St Lucia to Kozi Bay
Their ancestors, the Nguni, had been pushingnear the Mozambique border. This first rate
southwards from the Great Lakes region for ateco-tourism paradise, is an amalgamation of a
least three thousand years. The land wasnumberof protected areas including - Lake St
inhabited- if you could use the term- by SanLucia, St Lucia and Maputaland Marine Reserves,
Bushmen. This hunter-gatherer society was veryCoastal Forest Reserve and the Kosi Bay Natural
sparing in its demands on the land. The arrival ofReserve. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1999,
the Nguni, a people with numerous cattle herdsthe official bulletin justifying this distinction
and great thirst for land, put the Bushman underhighlighted the existence of 5 ecosystems
great stress and severe disadvantage.resulting in an exceptional diversity of species and
The Zulu derive directly from a clan head of theactual ongoing speciation.
Nguni named "Heaven" or Zulu, who established aThe park is a tropical and subtropical interface and
territory bearing his own name or KwaZulu in thehas landforms that include coral reefs, sandy
Umfolozi valley. The Zulu was a fairly insignificantbeaches, coastal dunes, lakes, swamps, and reed
power, even among the Nguni, until the arrival ofand papyrus wetlands. It occupies more than
Shaka Zulu. Shaka, born in 1787, was first-born3200 sq km, but supports more animal species
son to Chief Senzangakhona, but was consideredthan larger parks. Here you can find hippos,
illegitimate on account of a technicality. Shakaturtles, crocodiles, rhino, leopard and sharks. The
eventually corrected this injustice by plotting thebirding is unsurpassed and more than 530 species
death of his younger brother - the legitimate heir.are on record. The numerous activities possible
He thus rose to be chief of his people when hisinclude- fishing, hiking, boating, diving, game viewing
father died in 1816.and whale and bird watching. You can seek
Shaka was a man gifted with great daring,accommodation within the park or nearby towns
cunning and imagination. He repulsed numerousin the range of basic camps and luxury game
attacks by the Ndwandwe- a rival and morelodges to hotels and self-catering chalets.
militarily superior Nguni people, eventually forcingSodwana Bay Nature Reserve, which falls within
the enemy to flee northwards. Shaka appreciatedthe Greater St Lucia Wetland Park is a haven for
thatthe Ndwandwe would be back unless hesport fishing, boating, snorkeling and scuba diving.
created conditions to make it impossible. Above allThe underwater world, and the coral reefs in
else a military leader, he devised such weaponry,particular are outstanding, and the marine life
battle tactics and training methods that resulted inplenty. This is one of the world's top diving
an unbeatable army among known enemies ofdestinations. Youcan visit year round, but
the day. By numerous treacherous devices -war,conditions for diving are best April to September.
assassination, deceit and intimidation - he subduedWater temperatures vary from about 20
smaller and larger clans, and gathered all to hisdegrees C and can reach 29 degrees C in
realm.summer. Take time off from water sports for a
Within three years to 1819, the Zulu nationguided to see loggerhead and leatherback turtles.
emerged as the largest and most feared in theThere is good accommodation for most budgets
whole of southeastern Africa. And Shaka, nownearby.
King Shaka, was sitting pretty as its head. HisThe Drakenberg Mountains on KwaZulu-Natal's
success had however caused unprecedentedwestern border are one of South Africa's most
mayhem in the region, and aroused bitter jealousyoutstanding attractions. Rising 3282 m above sea
amongst his ambitious compatriots. He also ruledlevel, the spectacular 200 km long mountain
with an iron fist and was such a tyrant as hadranges were named by the martial minded Zulu
never risen before among the Zulu. Shaka wasas uKhahlamba or "Barrier of Spears". The
speared to death by Dingane -his half brother, inthoroughly photogenic "Amphitheatre"is very
1824. The Zulu kingdom survived him, but hisimpressive and is popular with visitors. This is a
legacy was to be severely tested, later in therock wall with a height of 500m and stretching for
century in conflicts with new rivals - the British5 km. Many adventure activities are available here
and Boers.in the most scenic of surroundings, including-
The British had approached Shaka, shortly beforehiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, paragliding,
his death, for trading rights in ivory and animalwhite-water rafting, birding, and fly and trout
skins. Shaka signed a document granting them thefishing.
chieftaincy of Port Natal, their small base on theThere are several parks and game reserves
east coast. In a very liberal and rather dishonestaround the Drakensberg Mountains, the most
interpretation of Shaka's intentions, they claimedprominent of which is the 2430 sq km
the Port Natal area in the name of the King ofuKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. It was declared a
England. Port Natal is today known to most asWorld Heritage Site in 2000 mainly for two
Durban -and to locals as "Durbs". The city is thereasons; first for its remarkable physical charm
gateway and business hub of KwaZulu-Natal, andand biological diversity, and second to highlight the
the logical starting point for exploring the region.Itsoutstanding collection of San rock art. Scattered
port ranks among the world's top 10, and is theover 600 sites; there are more than 35,000
busiest on the African continent. To discoverwell-preserved artworks, with scenes depicting
KwaZulu-Natal, rent a car at Durban or take ahunting, dancing, fighting and food gathering. The
South Africa tour or safari that covers the region.oldest paintings are estimated to date back 2400
Durban's weather is mild and pleasant -years, with more recent ones less than 200
temperatures average 17 degrees C in winteryears old.
(June-August) and 27 degrees C in summerScholars have in recent years studied San rock
(December to February). Holidaymakers areart closely and the consensus now is that this is
favoured with sea temperatures averaging 24not merely representation art but it has some
degrees C in summer rarely falling below 19spiritual content. At the Kamberg Rock Art
degrees C in winter. This coastal playgroundCentre, you can learn more about the San people,
enjoys at least a good 320 days of sunshineand how to interpret the symbolic and spiritual
every year. The rains come over the summercontent of their art. In the Drakensberg region,
months, when it can get quite hot and humid, withthere is a very wide range of accommodation
temperatures reaching for 33 degrees C. Longincluding - basic bed & breakfasts, guesthouses,
before everybody else, the San Bushmencamps, hotels, and luxury resorts. The rains come
wintered in Durban, taking advantage of thein summer between October and April, with the
excellent climate relative to their inland domains.rest of the year being mostly dry. Beware that
"The Golden Mile" is a 6 km long waterfront linedwinter nights can get extremely chilly and of
with some of Durban's top rated hotels. The citysudden thunderstorms in summer.
has some of the finest beaches in the country.Descending from the Drakensberg, you can visit
Good beaches for swimming and surfing can bethe battlefield sites, where some of South Africa's
found to the south of the city- Ansteys, Brighton,most vicious battles were fought. The
Cave Rock, and Garvies. To the north- Countryprotagonists were Zulu, Boer and British who
Club, Tekwini, and Laguna beaches are moreengaged one another in the nineteenth and early
exclusive and less crowded. Within the city, youtwentiethcentury. The hottest battles were
can visit museums and art galleries and shop forfought in areas around Colenso, Weenen, Dundee,
crafts. The Kwa-Muhle museum will educate youEstcourt, Glencoe, Ladysmith,Newcastle, Utrecht,
about Apartheid, which is important if you wantVolksrust, Vryheid and Winterton.
to understand South African society.The Voortrekkers had headed north away from
There are numerous restaurants- Indian, Africanthe Cape Colony to escape British control. After
and Western - in this cosmopolitan city. Thecrossing the Drakensberg, just like the Zulu people
Indians started coming here in 1860 as indenturedearlier, they believed they had reached "Heaven
labour for the sugar plantations. Today, theon Earth". Conflicts over land and other resources
Durban metro area has the largest Indianwere inevitable and in several episodes between
population outside India. Durban stands between1836-1852, the two parties sought a resolution
the North and South Coast of South Africa'sthrough arms. Next came the Anglo-Zulu war of
eastern seaboard. The North Coast beaches1879. The British eventually won, but they met a
include Umhlanga Rocks, Ballito, Shaka's Rock andnumber of disasters as they had initially
Shelley Beach. Here you find good accommodationunderestimated the Zulu army. This is the war
and myriad opportunities for swimming andthat broke the hearts of Bonaparte royalists after
surfing. Around Ballito is great for watching thePrince Louis Napoleon - an observer with the
ever-fascinating dolphins.British party- succumbed to multiple assegai
The South Coast stretches from Durban to Portthrusts.
Edward and covers Hibberdene, Port Shepstone,The British were busy making war again, this time
Margate and Southbroom. The region hason the Boers between 1880-81. They lost the
fantastic beaches and matching amenities.war, made peace but sought a rematch in the
Between Port Edward and Hibberdene is theAnglo-Boer War of 1899-1902. This second
scene of the sardine run. This most spectacularengagement attracted worldwide attention, and it
display of the natural world occurs around Junewas the first war ever recorded on film. Two of
and July. It is triggered by a 4-5 degrees C dropthe giants of the twentieth century were
in sea temperature that prompts millions ofwitnesses - Churchill as a reporter, and Gandhi as
sardines in great shoals to head northwards. Ona stretcher-bearer. It is advisable to tour with an
this dash, game fish, dolphins, sharks, whales andaccredited battlefield guide, who will retell the
others of their mortal enemies follow.story of the battles at various sites. While in the
Thisunforgettable experience appears to be thearea, there are opportunities to learn about Zulu
marine world's answer to the annual wildebeesthistory and culture, and also to buy local arts and
migration on the Kenya-Tanzania border.crafts.
To see wildlife you can travel to the