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KwaZulu-Natal- Shaka's Heaven on Earth

The remarkable diversity of attractions of
the KwaZulu-Natal region is unsurpassed inTo see wildlife you can travel to the
South Africa. It encompasses the splendidHluhluwe-Umfolozi Park, 175 km to the
Drakensburg Mountains, sublime subtropicalnortheast of Durban. This combination of the
beaches, top rated nature and game reserves,game reserves of Hluhluwe and Umfolozi
historic battlefields, rolling green hills ofoccupies 960 sq km. The park is mostly
the Natal Midlands and the city of Durban.savannah grasslands and low acacia bush, but
The range of activities possible is ahas a forested mountainous section. You will
challenge even for those with the mostsee the famed "big five"- lion, elephant,
eclectic of tastes: swimming, fishing,buffalo, leopard and rhino. The park is well
boating, scuba diving, hiking, abseiling,known for its very successful black and white
game viewing, cultural and historicalrhino conservation efforts. Other animal
touring, whale and bird watching and golfing.species to look out for include impala, blue
wildebeest, waterbuck, zebra, nyala, kudu,
Warmer and more authentic South Africa thanbushbuck, warthog, cheetah, hyena, jackal and
the Cape Region, KwaZulu-Natal is thegiraffe. Birding is great and over 300
favourite holiday destination for locals. Thespecies  are  on  record.
region lies between the Drakensberg Mountains
and Swaziland to the west; the Indian OceanYou can see game on guided walks, but for
to the east stretching from Port Edward inobvious reasons, an armed ranger must
the south to the Mozambique border in theaccompany you. The less adventurous will have
north.an equally satisfying game viewing experience
aboard a vehicle. Accommodation in the
As you transition from a subtropical toUmfolozi reserve is available at various bush
tropical environment, you encounter coolcamps at Sontuli, Nselweni and Mndindini and
mountain ranges, savannah grassland, coralat the self-catering cottages and tented camp
reefs, indigenous coastal forest and dunes,at Mpila. At Hluhluwe, the well-positioned
lakes and lagoons and papyrus wetlands. HereHilltop Camp offers accommodation ranging
9 million people occupy 92,000 sq km of somefrom a luxury lodge to self-catering chalets
the fairest and best-watered lands in Southand rondavels. The dry season in the
Africa.Hluhluwe-Umfolozi area falls between May and
August, while most off the rains fall within
Little wonder that the Zulu, or "people ofthe  rest  of  the  year.
heaven" considered the area a heaven on earth
indeed, and were extremely jealous of lateTo the northeast of KwaZulu Natal is the
comers who sought a share of it. And yet theGreater St Lucia Wetland Park, which
Zulu people themselves had arrived only instretches along a 280 km coastline from Cape
the 16th century. Their ancestors, the Nguni,St Lucia to Kozi Bay near the Mozambique
had been pushing southwards from the Greatborder. This first rate eco-tourism paradise,
Lakes region for at least three thousandis an amalgamation of a numberof protected
years. The land was inhabited- if you couldareas including - Lake St Lucia, St Lucia and
use the term- by San Bushmen. ThisMaputaland Marine Reserves, Coastal Forest
hunter-gatherer society was very sparing inReserve and the Kosi Bay Natural Reserve.
its demands on the land. The arrival of theDeclared a World Heritage Site in 1999, the
Nguni, a people with numerous cattle herdsofficial bulletin justifying this distinction
and great thirst for land, put the Bushmanhighlighted the existence of 5 ecosystems
under  great  stress and severe disadvantage.resulting in an exceptional diversity of
species  and  actual  ongoing  speciation.
The Zulu derive directly from a clan head of
the Nguni named "Heaven" or Zulu, whoThe park is a tropical and subtropical
established a territory bearing his own nameinterface and has landforms that include
or KwaZulu in the Umfolozi valley. The Zulucoral reefs, sandy beaches, coastal dunes,
was a fairly insignificant power, even amonglakes, swamps, and reed and papyrus wetlands.
the Nguni, until the arrival of Shaka Zulu.It occupies more than 3200 sq km, but
Shaka, born in 1787, was first-born son tosupports more animal species than larger
Chief Senzangakhona, but was consideredparks. Here you can find hippos, turtles,
illegitimate on account of a technicality.crocodiles, rhino, leopard and sharks. The
Shaka eventually corrected this injustice bybirding is unsurpassed and more than 530
plotting the death of his younger brother -species are on record. The numerous
the legitimate heir. He thus rose to be chiefactivities possible include- fishing, hiking,
of  his  people when his father died in 1816.boating, diving, game viewing and whale and
bird watching. You can seek accommodation
Shaka was a man gifted with great daring,within the park or nearby towns in the range
cunning and imagination. He repulsed numerousof basic camps and luxury game lodges to
attacks by the Ndwandwe- a rival and morehotels  and  self-catering  chalets.
militarily superior Nguni people, eventually
forcing the enemy to flee northwards. ShakaSodwana Bay Nature Reserve, which falls
appreciated thatthe Ndwandwe would be backwithin the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park is a
unless he created conditions to make ithaven for sport fishing, boating, snorkeling
impossible. Above all else a military leader,and scuba diving. The underwater world, and
he devised such weaponry, battle tactics andthe coral reefs in particular are
training methods that resulted in anoutstanding, and the marine life plenty. This
unbeatable army among known enemies of theis one of the world's top diving
day. By numerous treacherous devices -war,destinations. Youcan visit year round, but
assassination, deceit and intimidation - heconditions for diving are best April to
subdued smaller and larger clans, andSeptember. Water temperatures vary from about
gathered  all  to  his  realm.20 degrees C and can reach 29 degrees C in
summer. Take time off from water sports for a
Within three years to 1819, the Zulu nationguided to see loggerhead and leatherback
emerged as the largest and most feared in theturtles. There is good accommodation for most
whole of southeastern Africa. And Shaka, nowbudgets  nearby.
King Shaka, was sitting pretty as its head.
His success had however caused unprecedentedThe Drakenberg Mountains on KwaZulu-Natal's
mayhem in the region, and aroused bitterwestern border are one of South Africa's most
jealousy amongst his ambitious compatriots.outstanding attractions. Rising 3282 m above
He also ruled with an iron fist and was suchsea level, the spectacular 200 km long
a tyrant as had never risen before among themountain ranges were named by the martial
Zulu. Shaka was speared to death by Dinganeminded Zulu as uKhahlamba or "Barrier of
-his half brother, in 1824. The Zulu kingdomSpears". The thoroughly photogenic
survived him, but his legacy was to be"Amphitheatre"is very impressive and is
severely tested, later in the century inpopular with visitors. This is a rock wall
conflicts with new rivals - the British andwith a height of 500m and stretching for 5
Boers.km. Many adventure activities are available
here in the most scenic of surroundings,
The British had approached Shaka, shortlyincluding- hiking, rock climbing, mountain
before his death, for trading rights in ivorybiking, paragliding, white-water rafting,
and animal skins. Shaka signed a documentbirding,  and  fly  and  trout  fishing.
granting them the chieftaincy of Port Natal,
their small base on the east coast. In a veryThere are several parks and game reserves
liberal and rather dishonest interpretationaround the Drakensberg Mountains, the most
of Shaka's intentions, they claimed the Portprominent of which is the 2430 sq km
Natal area in the name of the King ofuKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. It was declared
England. Port Natal is today known to most asa World Heritage Site in 2000 mainly for two
Durban -and to locals as "Durbs". The city isreasons; first for its remarkable physical
the gateway and business hub ofcharm and biological diversity, and second to
KwaZulu-Natal, and the logical starting pointhighlight the outstanding collection of San
for exploring the region.Its port ranks amongrock art. Scattered over 600 sites; there are
the world's top 10, and is the busiest on themore than 35,000 well-preserved artworks,
African continent. To discover KwaZulu-Natal,with scenes depicting hunting, dancing,
rent a car at Durban or take a South Africafighting and food gathering. The oldest
tour  or  safari  that  covers  the  region.paintings are estimated to date back 2400
years, with more recent ones less than 200
Durban's weather is mild and pleasant -years  old.
temperatures average 17 degrees C in winter
(June-August) and 27 degrees C in summerScholars have in recent years studied San
(December to February). Holidaymakers arerock art closely and the consensus now is
favoured with sea temperatures averaging 24that this is not merely representation art
degrees C in summer rarely falling below 19but it has some spiritual content. At the
degrees C in winter. This coastal playgroundKamberg Rock Art Centre, you can learn more
enjoys at least a good 320 days of sunshineabout the San people, and how to interpret
every year. The rains come over the summerthe symbolic and spiritual content of their
months, when it can get quite hot and humid,art. In the Drakensberg region, there is a
with temperatures reaching for 33 degrees C.very wide range of accommodation including -
Long before everybody else, the San Bushmenbasic bed & breakfasts, guesthouses, camps,
wintered in Durban, taking advantage of thehotels, and luxury resorts. The rains come in
excellent climate relative to their inlandsummer between October and April, with the
domains.rest of the year being mostly dry. Beware
that winter nights can get extremely chilly
"The Golden Mile" is a 6 km long waterfrontand  of  sudden  thunderstorms  in  summer.
lined with some of Durban's top rated hotels.
The city has some of the finest beaches inDescending from the Drakensberg, you can
the country. Good beaches for swimming andvisit the battlefield sites, where some of
surfing can be found to the south of theSouth Africa's most vicious battles were
city- Ansteys, Brighton, Cave Rock, andfought. The protagonists were Zulu, Boer and
Garvies. To the north- Country Club, Tekwini,British who engaged one another in the
and Laguna beaches are more exclusive andnineteenth and early twentiethcentury. The
less crowded. Within the city, you can visithottest battles were fought in areas around
museums and art galleries and shop forColenso, Weenen, Dundee, Estcourt, Glencoe,
crafts. The Kwa-Muhle museum will educate youLadysmith,Newcastle, Utrecht, Volksrust,
about Apartheid, which is important if youVryheid  and  Winterton.
want  to  understand  South  African society.
The Voortrekkers had headed north away from
There are numerous restaurants- Indian,the Cape Colony to escape British control.
African and Western - in this cosmopolitanAfter crossing the Drakensberg, just like the
city. The Indians started coming here in 1860Zulu people earlier, they believed they had
as indentured labour for the sugarreached "Heaven on Earth". Conflicts over
plantations. Today, the Durban metro area hasland and other resources were inevitable and
the largest Indian population outside India.in several episodes between 1836-1852, the
Durban stands between the North and Southtwo parties sought a resolution through arms.
Coast of South Africa's eastern seaboard. TheNext came the Anglo-Zulu war of 1879. The
North Coast beaches include Umhlanga Rocks,British eventually won, but they met a number
Ballito, Shaka's Rock and Shelley Beach. Hereof disasters as they had initially
you find good accommodation and myriadunderestimated the Zulu army. This is the war
opportunities for swimming and surfing.that broke the hearts of Bonaparte royalists
Around Ballito is great for watching theafter Prince Louis Napoleon - an observer
ever-fascinating  dolphins.with the British party- succumbed to multiple
assegai  thrusts.
The South Coast stretches from Durban to Port
Edward and covers Hibberdene, Port Shepstone,The British were busy making war again, this
Margate and Southbroom. The region hastime on the Boers between 1880-81. They lost
fantastic beaches and matching amenities.the war, made peace but sought a rematch in
Between Port Edward and Hibberdene is thethe Anglo-Boer War of 1899-1902. This second
scene of the sardine run. This mostengagement attracted worldwide attention, and
spectacular display of the natural worldit was the first war ever recorded on film.
occurs around June and July. It is triggeredTwo of the giants of the twentieth century
by a 4-5 degrees C drop in sea temperaturewere witnesses - Churchill as a reporter, and
that prompts millions of sardines in greatGandhi as a stretcher-bearer. It is advisable
shoals to head northwards. On this dash, gameto tour with an accredited battlefield guide,
fish, dolphins, sharks, whales and others ofwho will retell the story of the battles at
their mortal enemies follow.various sites. While in the area, there are
Thisunforgettable experience appears to beopportunities to learn about Zulu history and
the marine world's answer to the annualculture, and also to buy local arts and
wildebeest migration on the Kenya-Tanzaniacrafts.
border.



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