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KwaZulu-Natal- Shaka's Heaven on Earth

The remarkable diversity of attractions To see wildlife you can travel to the
of the KwaZulu-Natal region is Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Park, 175 km to the
unsurpassed in South Africa. It northeast of Durban. This combination of
encompasses the splendid Drakensburg the game reserves of Hluhluwe and
Mountains, sublime subtropical beaches, Umfolozi occupies 960 sq km. The park is
top rated nature and game reserves, mostly savannah grasslands and low acacia
historic battlefields, rolling green bush, but has a forested mountainous
hills of the Natal Midlands and the city section. You will see the famed "big
of Durban. The range of activities five"- lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard
possible is a challenge even for those and rhino. The park is well known for its
with the most eclectic of tastes: very successful black and white rhino
swimming, fishing, boating, scuba diving, conservation efforts. Other animal
hiking, abseiling, game viewing, cultural species to look out for include impala,
and historical touring, whale and bird blue wildebeest, waterbuck, zebra, nyala,
watching and golfing. kudu, bushbuck, warthog, cheetah, hyena,
Warmer and more authentic South Africa jackal and giraffe. Birding is great and
than the Cape Region, KwaZulu-Natal is over 300 species are on record.
the favourite holiday destination for You can see game on guided walks, but for
locals. The region lies between the obvious reasons, an armed ranger must
Drakensberg Mountains and Swaziland to accompany you. The less adventurous will
the west; the Indian Ocean to the east have an equally satisfying game viewing
stretching from Port Edward in the south experience aboard a vehicle.
to the Mozambique border in the north. Accommodation in the Umfolozi reserve is
As you transition from a subtropical to available at various bush camps at
tropical environment, you encounter cool Sontuli, Nselweni and Mndindini and at
mountain ranges, savannah grassland, the self-catering cottages and tented
coral reefs, indigenous coastal forest camp at Mpila. At Hluhluwe, the
and dunes, lakes and lagoons and papyrus well-positioned Hilltop Camp offers
wetlands. Here 9 million people occupy accommodation ranging from a luxury lodge
92,000 sq km of some the fairest and to self-catering chalets and rondavels.
best-watered lands in South Africa. The dry season in the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi
Little wonder that the Zulu, or "people area falls between May and August, while
of heaven" considered the area a heaven most off the rains fall within the rest
on earth indeed, and were extremely of the year.
jealous of late comers who sought a share To the northeast of KwaZulu Natal is the
of it. And yet the Zulu people themselves Greater St Lucia Wetland Park, which
had arrived only in the 16th century. stretches along a 280 km coastline from
Their ancestors, the Nguni, had been Cape St Lucia to Kozi Bay near the
pushing southwards from the Great Lakes Mozambique border. This first rate
region for at least three thousand years. eco-tourism paradise, is an amalgamation
The land was inhabited- if you could use of a numberof protected areas including -
the term- by San Bushmen. This Lake St Lucia, St Lucia and Maputaland
hunter-gatherer society was very sparing Marine Reserves, Coastal Forest Reserve
in its demands on the land. The arrival and the Kosi Bay Natural Reserve.
of the Nguni, a people with numerous Declared a World Heritage Site in 1999,
cattle herds and great thirst for land, the official bulletin justifying this
put the Bushman under great stress and distinction highlighted the existence of
severe disadvantage. 5 ecosystems resulting in an exceptional
The Zulu derive directly from a clan head diversity of species and actual ongoing
of the Nguni named "Heaven" or Zulu, who speciation.
established a territory bearing his own The park is a tropical and subtropical
name or KwaZulu in the Umfolozi valley. interface and has landforms that include
The Zulu was a fairly insignificant coral reefs, sandy beaches, coastal
power, even among the Nguni, until the dunes, lakes, swamps, and reed and
arrival of Shaka Zulu. Shaka, born in papyrus wetlands. It occupies more than
1787, was first-born son to Chief 3200 sq km, but supports more animal
Senzangakhona, but was considered species than larger parks. Here you can
illegitimate on account of a find hippos, turtles, crocodiles, rhino,
technicality. Shaka eventually corrected leopard and sharks. The birding is
this injustice by plotting the death of unsurpassed and more than 530 species are
his younger brother - the legitimate on record. The numerous activities
heir. He thus rose to be chief of his possible include- fishing, hiking,
people when his father died in 1816. boating, diving, game viewing and whale
Shaka was a man gifted with great daring, and bird watching. You can seek
cunning and imagination. He repulsed accommodation within the park or nearby
numerous attacks by the Ndwandwe- a rival towns in the range of basic camps and
and more militarily superior Nguni luxury game lodges to hotels and
people, eventually forcing the enemy to self-catering chalets.
flee northwards. Shaka appreciated Sodwana Bay Nature Reserve, which falls
thatthe Ndwandwe would be back unless he within the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park
created conditions to make it impossible. is a haven for sport fishing, boating,
Above all else a military leader, he snorkeling and scuba diving. The
devised such weaponry, battle tactics and underwater world, and the coral reefs in
training methods that resulted in an particular are outstanding, and the
unbeatable army among known enemies of marine life plenty. This is one of the
the day. By numerous treacherous devices world's top diving destinations. Youcan
-war, assassination, deceit and visit year round, but conditions for
intimidation - he subdued smaller and diving are best April to September. Water
larger clans, and gathered all to his temperatures vary from about 20 degrees C
realm. and can reach 29 degrees C in summer.
Within three years to 1819, the Zulu Take time off from water sports for a
nation emerged as the largest and most guided to see loggerhead and leatherback
feared in the whole of southeastern turtles. There is good accommodation for
Africa. And Shaka, now King Shaka, was most budgets nearby.
sitting pretty as its head. His success The Drakenberg Mountains on
had however caused unprecedented mayhem KwaZulu-Natal's western border are one of
in the region, and aroused bitter South Africa's most outstanding
jealousy amongst his ambitious attractions. Rising 3282 m above sea
compatriots. He also ruled with an iron level, the spectacular 200 km long
fist and was such a tyrant as had never mountain ranges were named by the martial
risen before among the Zulu. Shaka was minded Zulu as uKhahlamba or "Barrier of
speared to death by Dingane -his half Spears". The thoroughly photogenic
brother, in 1824. The Zulu kingdom "Amphitheatre"is very impressive and is
survived him, but his legacy was to be popular with visitors. This is a rock
severely tested, later in the century in wall with a height of 500m and stretching
conflicts with new rivals - the British for 5 km. Many adventure activities are
and Boers. available here in the most scenic of
The British had approached Shaka, shortly surroundings, including- hiking, rock
before his death, for trading rights in climbing, mountain biking, paragliding,
ivory and animal skins. Shaka signed a white-water rafting, birding, and fly and
document granting them the chieftaincy of trout fishing.
Port Natal, their small base on the east There are several parks and game reserves
coast. In a very liberal and rather around the Drakensberg Mountains, the
dishonest interpretation of Shaka's most prominent of which is the 2430 sq km
intentions, they claimed the Port Natal uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. It was
area in the name of the King of England. declared a World Heritage Site in 2000
Port Natal is today known to most as mainly for two reasons; first for its
Durban -and to locals as "Durbs". The remarkable physical charm and biological
city is the gateway and business hub of diversity, and second to highlight the
KwaZulu-Natal, and the logical starting outstanding collection of San rock art.
point for exploring the region.Its port Scattered over 600 sites; there are more
ranks among the world's top 10, and is than 35,000 well-preserved artworks, with
the busiest on the African continent. To scenes depicting hunting, dancing,
discover KwaZulu-Natal, rent a car at fighting and food gathering. The oldest
Durban or take a South Africa tour or paintings are estimated to date back 2400
safari that covers the region. years, with more recent ones less than
Durban's weather is mild and pleasant - 200 years old.
temperatures average 17 degrees C in Scholars have in recent years studied San
winter (June-August) and 27 degrees C in rock art closely and the consensus now is
summer (December to February). that this is not merely representation
Holidaymakers are favoured with sea art but it has some spiritual content. At
temperatures averaging 24 degrees C in the Kamberg Rock Art Centre, you can
summer rarely falling below 19 degrees C learn more about the San people, and how
in winter. This coastal playground enjoys to interpret the symbolic and spiritual
at least a good 320 days of sunshine content of their art. In the Drakensberg
every year. The rains come over the region, there is a very wide range of
summer months, when it can get quite hot accommodation including - basic bed &
and humid, with temperatures reaching for breakfasts, guesthouses, camps, hotels,
33 degrees C. Long before everybody else, and luxury resorts. The rains come in
the San Bushmen wintered in Durban, summer between October and April, with
taking advantage of the excellent climate the rest of the year being mostly dry.
relative to their inland domains. Beware that winter nights can get
"The Golden Mile" is a 6 km long extremely chilly and of sudden
waterfront lined with some of Durban's thunderstorms in summer.
top rated hotels. The city has some of Descending from the Drakensberg, you can
the finest beaches in the country. Good visit the battlefield sites, where some
beaches for swimming and surfing can be of South Africa's most vicious battles
found to the south of the city- Ansteys, were fought. The protagonists were Zulu,
Brighton, Cave Rock, and Garvies. To the Boer and British who engaged one another
north- Country Club, Tekwini, and Laguna in the nineteenth and early
beaches are more exclusive and less twentiethcentury. The hottest battles
crowded. Within the city, you can visit were fought in areas around Colenso,
museums and art galleries and shop for Weenen, Dundee, Estcourt, Glencoe,
crafts. The Kwa-Muhle museum will educate Ladysmith,Newcastle, Utrecht, Volksrust,
you about Apartheid, which is important Vryheid and Winterton.
if you want to understand South African The Voortrekkers had headed north away
society. from the Cape Colony to escape British
There are numerous restaurants- Indian, control. After crossing the Drakensberg,
African and Western - in this just like the Zulu people earlier, they
cosmopolitan city. The Indians started believed they had reached "Heaven on
coming here in 1860 as indentured labour Earth". Conflicts over land and other
for the sugar plantations. Today, the resources were inevitable and in several
Durban metro area has the largest Indian episodes between 1836-1852, the two
population outside India. Durban stands parties sought a resolution through arms.
between the North and South Coast of Next came the Anglo-Zulu war of 1879. The
South Africa's eastern seaboard. The British eventually won, but they met a
North Coast beaches include Umhlanga number of disasters as they had initially
Rocks, Ballito, Shaka's Rock and Shelley underestimated the Zulu army. This is the
Beach. Here you find good accommodation war that broke the hearts of Bonaparte
and myriad opportunities for swimming and royalists after Prince Louis Napoleon -
surfing. Around Ballito is great for an observer with the British party-
watching the ever-fascinating dolphins. succumbed to multiple assegai thrusts.
The South Coast stretches from Durban to The British were busy making war again,
Port Edward and covers Hibberdene, Port this time on the Boers between 1880-81.
Shepstone, Margate and Southbroom. The They lost the war, made peace but sought
region has fantastic beaches and matching a rematch in the Anglo-Boer War of
amenities. Between Port Edward and 1899-1902. This second engagement
Hibberdene is the scene of the sardine attracted worldwide attention, and it was
run. This most spectacular display of the the first war ever recorded on film. Two
natural world occurs around June and of the giants of the twentieth century
July. It is triggered by a 4-5 degrees C were witnesses - Churchill as a reporter,
drop in sea temperature that prompts and Gandhi as a stretcher-bearer. It is
millions of sardines in great shoals to advisable to tour with an accredited
head northwards. On this dash, game fish, battlefield guide, who will retell the
dolphins, sharks, whales and others of story of the battles at various sites.
their mortal enemies follow. While in the area, there are
Thisunforgettable experience appears to opportunities to learn about Zulu history
be the marine world's answer to the and culture, and also to buy local arts
annual wildebeest migration on the and crafts.
Kenya-Tanzania border.




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